Acadia National Park

Information from the Acadia U.S. National Park Service brochure

An Acadian Afternoon

Your hike begins in the cool shade of the spruce-fir forest.  Ribbons of sunlight drop through the canopy to needle-carpeted ground.  The rat-a-tat of a pileated woodpecker shatters the hush of the woods, and a red squirrel darting along a tree trunk chitters as you pass by.

The trail rises; tree roots underfoot give way to lichen-splotched granite.  Clumps of sheep laurel and low-bush blueberry grow along the trail.  Squat, gnarled pitch pines replace the straight spruce and fir below, and the scent of pine resin baking in the sun fills the air.

After a rugged scramble over boulders, you pause in  a shady spot to sip from your water bottle, noting the goose-foot shaped leaves of striped maple glowing emerald in the sun.  There are birch here and aspen and oak; a much different forest that the one you started in.  Could fire have once swept through here, allowing faster-growing, sun-loving plants to dominate in place of shade-loving spruce?  OR is some other process at work?  What will become of these younger forests as time passes?

Stone steps appear ahead, a slope of loose rock scree magically rearranged.  The trail, built more than a hundred years ago by a summer resident, is but one of many contributions made by those who sought to preserve parts of the Acadian landscape for others to enjoy.

On a ranger-led walk earlier in the day, you learned to identify the trill of the white-throated sparrow, and now it pierces the air.  Like so many other species, the white-throated sparrow visits only for the summer, spending its winters far beyond park borders in the south.  As the trail climbs, the forest shrinks away to stunted weather-beaten trees and barren granite.  You step lightly, and on stone, for life here is already tough for the plants that must survive in the severe climates of mountain tops, without a hiking boot crushing them.  Three-toothed cinquefoil clusters behind rocks and sinks its roots into what little soil exists in the joints of granite bedrock.  One careless kick of a rock could destroy decades of growth and crucial habitat for summit plants, including some rare sub-alpine species.

A panorama of shore and sea emerges, revealing the landmarks that define Acadia's coast - Sand Beach, Thunder Hole, and Otter Point.  Across the bay, Schoodic Peninsula juts into the ocean.  Visitors in the 1800s once looked out upon a similar scene, but instead of hearing the mutter of lobster boats, the saw the sails of hundreds of fishing sloops dotting the bay.

At the summit you are encircled by the mountainous and oceanic world of Acadia.  In only one mile you have hiked from sea level to the solitude of a mountain summit.  Now you are faced with decisions: Explore father one?  Return to your starting point?

Beguiled by cool ocean breezes and the sun beating on your shoulders, maybe you simply sit back and contemplate the sky and seas, and the scudding clouds, and the fine afternoon that brought you here.

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People of Mount Desert Island

The earliest indigenous people of Mount Desert were hunter-gatherers who plied the sea in dugout canoes in pursuit of sea mammals and fish.  Bits on animal bone, pottery shards, and stone tools, discarded in clam shell heaps, reveal clues about their daily lives,  

More recently, the Wabanaki inhabited the island year round, hunting, gathering, and trading with European fishermen and explorers. Explorer Samuel Champlain created the first reliable European record of Mount Desert Island in 1604.  Though there were attempts to settle the island after his visit, 150 years of war between the French and British made it disputed territory unsafe for habitation until 1761, when English colonists established the first permanent settlement.

Islanders fished, farmed, quarried granite, and engaged in shipping.  When the first visitors arrived in the mid-1800s, the tourist trade offered a new source of income.  Landscape painters of the Hudson River School inspired droves of weary city dwellers to seek out Mount Desert Island.  Huge wooden hotels, and extravagant "cottages" built by wealthy summer residents, soon transformed quiet farming and fishing villages.

Amid the bustle and clamor of socials and lawn parties, there were those who still appreciated the natural beauty of the island.  In 1901, Harvard president Charles Eliot formed the Hancock County Trustees of Public Reservations to help preserve some of the beautiful spots on Mount Desert Island.  The Trustees acquired about 5,000 acres in donated land that they presented to the Federal Government.  President Woodrow Wilson signed Sieur de Monts national Monument into existence in 1916.  As the park expanded with more land donations, an act of Congress re-designated it as a national park in 1919, making it the first to be established east of the Mississippi River.

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